Walk Beale Street with Justin Townes Earle

This isn't a landmark in the traditional sense. There's no plaque, no museum, no gift shop. It's just a thing you should do. Put on Justin Townes Earle's "Mornings in Memphis," stick your headphones in, and walk Beale Street end to end. The song will tell you how fast to go.

Justin was Steve Earle's son, named after Townes Van Zandt — two massive names to carry around. He made his own thing out of it though, a loose country-blues sound that felt more Memphis than Nashville. "Mornings in Memphis" is the best argument anyone's ever made for getting up early in this city. It's quiet and warm and a little bit sad, the way Memphis always is before the tourists show up.

Start at the western end near the river and walk east. Do it in the morning if you can — the street's almost empty then, just delivery trucks and the smell of last night's barbecue hanging around. The neon's off, the clubs are shuttered, and the whole place feels like it belongs to you for a minute.

You'll pass B.B. King's Blues Club, the brass notes in the sidewalk, Handy Park with its W.C. Handy statue, A. Schwab's old general store. Let the song set the pace. Nobody's going to charge you admission for this one.

Justin died in August 2020. He was 38. Accidental overdose — the same thing that chased him his whole adult life. He put out a run of albums that never quite got the audience they deserved. Start with "Harlem River Blues" if you're new to him. "Midnight at the Movies" and "Nothing's Gonna Change the Way You Feel About Me Now" are just as good.

Walking Beale with his voice in your ears is about as good a way to see Memphis as any. Not ticking off landmarks, just letting the city come to you at whatever speed feels right.